On coffee

The Atlantic's Ellen Cushing explains why, in spite of its ever-increasing cost and the availability of any number of caffeine-delivering alternatives, coffee is "the drink that Americans won't give up without a fight:"

Coffee is fixed in our culture, our economy, our rituals, and our brain chemistry. It is the country’s most consumed beverage aside from water, and its psychoactive ingredient, caffeine, is by far the most popular drug on Earth. On any given day, an American is likelier to drink coffee than they are to exercise, pray, or read for pleasure. The U.S. has more Starbucks locations than public libraries. Coffee gave us the Enlightenment, and insurance, and the most puissant bop of summer 2024. It is so crucial to the machinery of capitalism that many employers give it away, like pens or any other essential office supply. It is the only consumable I can think of that people regularly joke about dying without (which is funny because, again, it provides nothing our bodies actually need to live). It is the thing in a big carafe at every meeting, and on the menu at nearly every restaurant, and built into our language as a widely understood shorthand for “having a conversation with another person.”

Due to a variety of factors - chief among them, the Trump administration's tariffs on coffee-producing countries such as Brazil and Vietnam - American coffee drinkers are paying about 40 percent more for their cup of joe than they were a year ago. Congress recently introduced a bill to exempt coffee from Trump's tariffs, but it remains to be seen if it will go anywhere, even if and when the current government shutdown ends. 

It is also a fascinating symbol of the interdependence, and the limitations, of an internationalized food system and the free-trading global order. “Coffee is a good way to think about how the world works,” the author and food historian Augustine Sedgewick told me when I called him to chat about it. Aside from on a few comparatively tiny farms in Hawaii, California, and Puerto Rico, coffee doesn’t grow in the United States: We cannot make the drink that we cannot live without. And though we expect coffee to be cheaply and abundantly available, its production is tremendously costly and difficult, even before tariffs.

Coffee is a strange crop because it only grows in particular altitudes and soils, and is rather complicated to procure and prepare. Its harvesting, cleaning and roasting requires a great deal of manual labor - and that all happens before the barista grinds the beans and makes your latte. Honestly, it seems weird that we drink it at all. 

Yet we can't seem to live without it, and we intimately feel the pain when we have to pay more for it.