Downtown Kim Son to close

Not surprising, but nevertheless depressing:

Just over a year after shutting down its Stafford location, Kim Son’s ownership confirmed that its flagship in East Downtown, 2001 Jefferson, will close sometime next year because of the Interstate 45 expansion project.

“They haven’t given us a date, but we know it’s coming,” said Tao La, who is the chief operating officer of his family’s Vietnamese restaurant. “It’s just a matter of time.”

I knew that Kim Son's iconic downtown location would have to make way for the North Houston Highway Improvement Project several years ago, when I first saw the conceptual schematic drawings for the project. Essentially, everything between Chartres and St. Emanuel Streets is going to have to be cleared for the reconstruction of I-45 around downtown. That means that a lot of restaurants and bars other than Kim Son are in the path of demolition as well:

The confirmation of Kim Son's latest closing follows a steady stream of announcements from restaurants affected by the I-45 project, a $10 billion-plus project that could span two decades of construction. 

In September, Agricole Hospitality blamed the upcoming work for closing two restaurants and a bar concept on St. Emanuel. Neil’s Bahr, 2006 Walker, expects to relocate and possibly reopen this winter at 3409 McKinney. Popular downtown cafe Tout Suite projected it will move to an East End-mixed use project next summer.

Kim Son has been in business in the area bordered by I-45 long before any of those restaurants, bars and cafes. 

When Kim Son opened in 1982, "EaDo" was referred to as Houston’s Chinatown. The family’s Vietnamese restaurant originally opened on St. Emanuel before moving to a small space on Pease Street, La said. 

The flagship restaurant on Jefferson opened in February 1993. The pagoda-like building was a sprawling 20,000 square feet with seating for 350 in the downstairs dining room and banquet rooms upstairs for up to 650 customers. The entry included a water feature with a 16-foot limestone fish pond teeming with goldfish.

Kim Son hosted countless weddings and banquets for decades. 

My family and I ate at Kim Son's small-yet-busy Pease location for as long as we can remember, and I remember how impressed we were with the palatial new space when it opened. We have frequented it many times since - bringing out-of-town guests, celebrating birthdays and anniversaries, or just enjoying a relaxed meal - so much so that we almost have the menu memorized.

As of right now a closing date for the restaurant has not been set, so diners will likely have several more months to eat at this location before TxDOT's wrecking balls arrive. Once the Jefferson location closes, Kim Son's lone remaining location will be on Bellaire Boulevard. However:

Depending on the construction work, Tao La said they may open a smaller Kim Son on land they own in the same area where their flagship restaurant has been open for over three decades.

“We have to move on to the next chapter, but we still want a presence,” Tao La said. “We can’t let that legacy go.”

I hope so, because I'm otherwise really going to miss those spring rolls.